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Alona Beach



trees!, originally uploaded by when milko shoots.

I’m currently on an island called Panglao, which hangs of the south west corner of Bohol. Sadly I didn’t take this photo - it’s been grey and drizzly since we got here, but I’m not complaining because the sea is flat as a pancake.

Alona Beach is either diving Mecca, or diving hell, depending on how you look at it. Every little resort (and there are a lotof them) crammed along the beach has a dive shop attached. The sea looks like where dive boats come to breed - I’ll try and get a photo tomorrow.

Lucky for me, when I came to book the trip, all the resorts were full. So we’re staying at a gorgeous little place called Alumbung, a few minutes ride away from the main drag. It’s nice to be waved at by children and offered coconut wine by drunks in the local sari-sari store rather than being scowled at by other tourists. We have a beautiful little ‘lumbung’ (which is apparently a Balinese rice barn with a Filipino twist!) with a sleeping area up a ladder and a great indoor/outdoor living area underneath with lots of bamboo and hammocks. It’s set in our own little garden, so it’s private and, roosters aside, quiet. Oh, and we have wireless internet too, hurrah!

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Petrol on Siquijor: new developments!

Gas Station

Last August I took this photo of a petrol station on Siquijor and posted it to my flickr account. I recently received the following comment from Ablejon, updating me on the current petrol situation.

Technically speaking, we do still sell petrol with soft drinks bottles like Pepsi and Coke. But now, we have 2 gasoline refilling stations in the island with Petron; 1 in Nonoc, Larena and 1 in Pangi, Siquijor.

He also pointed me towards the Pangi Gasoline Station website.

I was fortunate enough to see the Pangi Station for myself this week as I was back on Siquijor for more fish counting, but sadly didn’t get the opportunity to top up there. We stayed at a little place called The Norwegian Dream Beach Resort just up the road. The staff were incredibly helpful, making sure there was a big pot of brewed coffee on the table for breakfast every morning, and even went as far as arranging some Norwegian weather for us. For four days we shivered in the rain, were thrown around on the surface in waves bigger than our little boat and underwater by unpredictable currents. One day it was so bad our boat couldn’t make it back to the Norwegian Dream, so Rich and I had to try and catch a jeepney back across the island in our wetsuits! I was cold and had had enough, so decided to end the trip a day early and come back to Dumaguete first thing Sunday morning. We woke up to the first blue sky all week and a flat sea - aaaargh!

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Kookoo’s nest

Kookoo's nest from the sea

Just got back from diving in Siaton. The surveys didn’t go 100% to plan… we had to scrap one site as there was nothing but sand, and another was near a river outflow so was kind of silty… BUT I saw a shark! Note: this is almost unheard of in the Philippines, there are no sharks left. Right at the start of the dive on our last morning, I was dropping down over the reef crest and right in front of me was a big blacktip reef shark. I think he was as surprised to se me as I was him, and shot off pronto. A thrilling start to the dive!

We stayed at a place called Kookoo’s nest - apparently kookoo’s, unlike cuckoo’s, have nests. We had a fab little hut with a balcony overlooking the beach, and the food was to die for. Every night Nikki puts on a buffet with barbequed fish, curry, stir fried noodles, salad, fresh fruit and all sorts of goodies. There was a really great atmosphere, unlike most of the resorts around here which tend to be full of sleazy old men propping up the bar, or being propped up by their underage Filipina girlfriends. It’s only a couple of hours ride from Dumaguete, so I think I’ll be tempted to come back for a weekend’s R&R and fattening up!

Oh, and one night there was an earthquake! I think this might be my first proper earthquake, simulated ones in some science centre in Iceland on a geography field trip don’t count I don’t think.

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Siquijor misadventures

Sunset at Coral Cay

I always love going to Siquijor - it’s a gorgeous island away from the city grime, the people are incredibly friendly and the diving is fab. The only downside to working on the island is that there’s a really wide, shallow seagrass flat that stretches out to the reef. So we’re standing on the beach, looking at our dive boat which is stuck several hundred meters out by the reef. Every morning and afternoon we had a fun game of paddling a kayak borrowed from the resort out to the boat, then paddling both the kayak and the little bangka from the dive boat back to the beach, and then the bangka back to the boat (we couldn’t convince the resort to let us keep the kayak all day).

After a couple of days of this, we asked our boat boys if we couldn’t fit three of us in the little bangka to go back to the beach, since we were leaving all our gear on the boat. It was pretty low in the water, and required a certain degree of balancing, but it seemed to be working fine. About half way, minds firmly fixed on a hot shower and sundowners at the bar, there was an almighty creaking noise and the bamboo outrigger snapped in half, sending us all flying! It was pretty funny after I had managed to swim back to the beach and pull the urchin spines out of my foot (calamansi/lime works a treat!), but I did feel bad about the boat!

The next day we managed to persuade Coral Cay to launch their bangka to ferry us to and from the reef. Luckily it was made of sterner stuff.

On the road

After three days diving/working, we took a day off and hired a motorbike to explore the island a bit. At first the plan was for me to learn to ride the bike, but we ended up with such a monster that I don’t think I would have been able to reach the peddles, so I just clung on for dear life.

Siquijor has one main road that runs around the island. It’s a beautiful ride, and we stopped off at old convents and stunning beaches along the way. After lunch we decided that we needed a bit more adventure, and turned off onto a smaller road to head up through the hills to San Antonio - a village that apparently practices the witchcraft Siquijor is infamous for.

I’m not sure that we ever made it to San Antonio… a rash decision at a cross roads led us to ever deteriorating roads (sometimes I think we were riding along a river bed) and ever smaller and more rural communities. People starting running from their houses to wave hello to us. Clearly foreigners had not been in these parts in a long time. Worryingly, people became unsure of which direction to point us in when we asked for directions, to the third largest town on the island. By this stage I was pretty glad we had the big bike, and not the little scooter thing I was after! Eventually, aching from the bumpy non-roads and just as the sun was setting, we made it back to the main road and our resort. It was a great adventure though - we’re going back for more exploring over holy week!

OutsideLittle green house

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Back in the tropics

Salagdoon beach

Back in the Philippines again. Internet access is sporadic, as I’m dashing from one remote beach to another but I’ll try and do an update on my adventures soon!

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London and Sheffield

Two weeks home for Christmas and New Year was a complete blur - rushing up and down the country seeing friends and family, frantically buying warm clothes and trying to fit in all the food that I can’t find in Phils and Oz. It was a lot of fun, and great to catch up with (nearly) everyone, but not an entirely relaxing break… I feel like I need a holiday now to recover. Here’s a few photos, since I haven’t had time to write anything.

Please stand behind the yellow line

That photo of the reading room

Information commons

I miss Crookes

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Lochaline

Jumping in

Diving was cold! After being spoilt in the tropics for so long, the cold dark and murky depths of UK diving didn’t look quite so inviting! I did a couple of dives, but mostly treated myself to mince pies and a book in bed, or discussed the state of the world’s fisheries with the skipper, who was jolly nice and let me drive his boat around.

New Years Eve was spent dodging firecrackers which I managed to sneak back illegally (I presume) from the Philippines, drinking lots of Bison vodka and swigging Moet from a bottle at midnight. All good fun!

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Flying home for Christmas!

Weather widget

Tomorrow I begin my epic journey home… Dumaguete to Manila, Manila to Hong Kong, Hong Kong to Heathrow and Heathrow to home. Not counting the weird going back in time thing, it will take me around 30 hours of travelling door to door! (I had to leave plenty of layover time in Manila and HK to allow for the Cebu Pacific effect - think Asian EasyJet)

I’m excited about seeing everyone, drinking pints of beer, cheese (as opposed to Cheeez), food from Waitrose and shopping in London. I’m less excited about the temperature difference… according to my weather widget, on Sunday Sheffield will reach a sunny high of 7˙C compared to 29˙C in Dumaguete. I can’t imagine what 7˙C feels like! I’m not sure my fridge here even gets that cold. I had to go on an emergency mission yesterday to buy trainers and jeans.

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In which Sting is classified as Reggae, and our heroine is displaced once more from her home

Reading material

Brian left to go back to the States for Christmas today, so last night we went to Hayayay for some farewell beers and rhum. Wednesday night is the ever-popular ‘Reggae Night’. Last night the band played a set including Dusty Springfield, Save Ferris, Sting and the Police (“I’m a Jam-ai-can in New York….”) and the Sesame Street theme song. An interesting interpretation of the theme!

Today I had to move house again. It seems like a regular occupation of mine! I’ve been sulking about moving, because I loved the apartment I was in, and had just got to that familiar stage where you can walk around at night without needing to turn the lights on, and can place your hand on switches without fumbling about. Sigh.

After saying she needed to move today (instead of tomorrow, as was scheduled), Weird Korean Girl wasn’t even around to move her stuff. She expected our landlord and his helpers to move everything for her, the place was a mess and she hadn’t even made any attempt to pack things up! Grrrrrr. So after spending two hours helping to pack and move her stuff and clean the place, she now has my nice apartment, and I’m stuck with the new one. Which is still nice really, but not as nice as the old one. Sulk.

P.S. I’ve been reading Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days - It’s fab. You should read it.

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What can no-take marine reserves teach the world?

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The uni area of Dumaguete is always covered in banners like these, announcing lectures, congratulating students who have won awards or graduated, welcoming guests etc. Garry had just been made an adjunct professor at Silliman University, so yesterday he gave a professorial lecture, worthy of a banner of his own. It was the most unbelievably formal lecture I’ve ever been to! In addition to the lengthy and profuse introductions, we had to stand for the Philippine National Anthem and then a prayer, and after the lecture we stood again to sing the Silliman song, which was a toe-tapping anthem straight out of the ’50s.

Loyal will we be to Silliman,
Here’s a cheer, boys, three times three:
Silliman our Alma Mater,
Silliman beside the sea…

Hilarious. Garry gave the same lecture in Townsville, and there we just had a free bar and nibbles. Ma’am Emily asked if he would like the JCU hymn to be included in the programme… so we’ve been having a lot of fun trying to imagine how that might go!

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